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Brian Ojanpa

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November 20, 2009

Hamburger Heaven making a comeback

Resurrecting a legendary Mankato hamburger hut might be daunting to some, but Ray and Ann Hager are plunging headlong into that spatula challenge.

In early December Hilltop Tavern, aka Hamburger Heaven, will be reborn as Guenther’s Cafe.

The name refers to its location at the corner of Madison Avenue and Guenther Street, and its fare will pay homage to that which made Hilltop Tavern famous.

Which is to say, handmade burgers with lots of fried onions, potato salad, chili and a general ambiance that landed Hilltop on a slew of national “best burger” lists during its five-decade tenure.

That’s why the Hagers want to make a distinction: Their new venture will strive to emulate Hilltop, not replicate it. They’re well aware that Hamburger Heaven held an exalted status.

They’ll also be adding a new wrinkle — breakfasts — that weren’t available at Hilltop.

Patrons of the new place will be greeted by some familiar touches. Hilltop’s retro Hamm’s beer signs will be back in place, and the tavern’s vintage mahogany bar has been brought out of storage.

Gene Braam, who owns the building, said Hilltop Tavern opened in 1949 under the ownership of Bea Roberts.

Braam’s mother worked for Roberts, who eventually sold it to her employee. The Braam family took over in 1973 and turned the business into an iconic local fixture.

When Hilltop closed about seven years ago, a Coney dog cafe opened in its place and lasted a couple of years, followed by an Ethiopian restaurant that operated for five years.

Enter the Hagers, who were looking for an income producer following Ray’s layoff from a telecommunications company.

Back in the day, Ray Hager cooked at the defunct Junction Inn just outside Mankato, Ann waitressed in an area restaurant, and they’ll draw upon those experiences in running Guenther’s.

In fact, the cafe also will feature the onion rings that gained Junction Inn its own measure of fame. And in a nod to another bygone local eatery, the cafe will offer the fried butter-brown potatoes that were a signature item at the Kit Kat Inn.

And if it’s an old-fashioned malt you crave, the Hagers will have that covered. And yes, you’ll get the extra in its metal mixing cup.



Brian Ojanpa is a Free Press staff writer. Call him at 344-6316 or e-mail bojanpa@mankatofreepress.com .









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